Best Buy Infrared Thermometer Laser - Review And Compare Price

Thermometer technology has improved vastly in recent times. Lately, a new kind of thermometer-the laser thermometer-is becoming much talked about. As the name suggests, this thermometer works on the laser principle. But that's all most people know about them. Let's get to know these thermometers in a bit more detail here.

What Are Laser Thermometers?

These are thermometers that work on the principle of laser. When any substance is hot, it radiates this heat from all of its parts. This causes the molecules in this area to vibrate with greater velocity. Laser can measure this increase in velocity, and this is then converted into a temperature reading. This is the reading that a laser thermometer provides.

The shape of these thermometers is more or less like a gun. There's a region from where the laser is emitted. The laser ray is directly pointed to the surface whose temperature is to be measured. Though the path of the ray cannot be seen clearly, the point at which the ray touches the surface can be seen as a bright red dot. Within moments, the temperature of this incident area is reported by the thermometer.

Since any hot body will emit an equal amount of heat radiation from all of its parts, these laser based thermometers can be pointed at any point on the surface of the body. The reading is almost similar, irrespective of where this actual point is located. This becomes an advantage of laser thermometers over other thermometers, which need to be positioned in specific ways on the body whose temperature is to be measured.

Advantages

1. Laser thermometers don't really need to be brought in contact with the object whose temperature needs to be measured. They can even measure temperature from a remote location. It is only necessary that the path of the laser shouldn't be obstructed. It is for this reason that the laser-based thermometers are also called as non-touch thermometers.

2. The results are instantaneous. This is a great benefit, especially when creating clinical thermometers for infants. By using thermometers that work on the laser principle, it is no longer necessary to place the thermometer on the patient's body and wait for a minute before taking the reading.

3. All these thermometers are digital, which makes it much easier to get readings from them.

Applications

These thermometers find a lot of versatile uses.

1. They are used in measuring body temperatures, especially in the form of ear thermometers, which are extensively used for measuring body temperature in babies.

2. They are used to find the temperature of food. Whether food is just removed from the refrigerator or from the oven, these thermometers can accurately tell what its temperature is, which helps you decide whether you want to eat the food or wait a while.

3. They are used in industry in determining places where there might be heat leakages. A routine laser thermometer scan of the whole area will show if there's any place where there's excessive heating.

4. Similarly, they are used by firefighters. If a particular area is just about to catch fire, a laser thermometer will be able to find its increased temperature in advance, and hence it will give the firefighters some advance warning.

A garage is an ideal place to store all your things and also your gear for activities, tools and also equipment; as well as its initial function for vehicle parking to pursuits just like a home business office, a fitness center or perhaps a workshop. If the garage is useful for storage space instead of alternative activities it genuinely requires a few shelves for organization.

Typically garage shelving is found in a couple of primary types: site-built and prefabricated. Site designed shelving is typically less costly and also allows you to adjust the dimensions to the space or room offered. You will find all that you need in the nearby home center, lumber yard or home improvement store. Among the basics with the garage shelving consists of a quick section of ¾" plywood or perhaps a length of 1x and 2 x woods upon some heavy-duty shelf mounting brackets. This can be installed by hanging the mounting brackets on the studs' direct making use of long screws after that through hanging that shelf on the mounting brackets. In order to reinforce the shelf it is possible to put in a brace at every stud.

Another kind of shelf is the floor supported. This solution would be to install top to bottom 2x4s each spaced 50 inches apart and rest them on the floor and then affixing them to the rafters or even ceiling joists at the very top. Also, the actual 2x4s will be run flat on edge in between the uprights next the plywood is needed to make the actual shelf. One of the most widely used measurements is usually 19-25 inches regarding depth plus the space in between 2x4s is generally 25 inches. However, all these dimensions could be altered to allow for how big the things that you're keeping.

With regard to keeping small things you ought to consider the actual room in between the studs. Through affixing a number of 1x2 strips horizontally on the inside sides regarding 2 adjacent studs roughly 6 ins apart, cutting several 1x4 and also 1x6 sections of wood then installing them in between studs and sliding these over the actual 1x2s you'll be able to generate several little flexible shelves. They are excellent for containers, cans as well as bottles plus for additional tiny, light objects. The smaller shelves are wonderful for coordinating and also keeping screws and nails.

The very best option any time making prefabricated garage shelving is metal shelves. Plastic-type shelves might be sufficient for keeping light weight things however in time you will need a little something far more resilient with regard to keeping weightier objects. A single drawback to the metal shelves is the fact they can't be cut to length therefore they have typical widths, depths and also height. You will have to select something which suits your own available area.

Adjustability will be another necessary concern with prefabricated shelves. Partially put together shelving ought to be flexible to a minimum of 2 distinct locations inside the shelves framework as well as the pins with regard to modifying ought to be durable and must have one thing in place for protecting against these from coming unfastened or perhaps getting unintentionally dislodged.

One more thing to be considered anytime you're deciding partially put together shelving, especially those created for weighty loads, is they might need a wall connection or some other attachment to protect against tipping.

Using a digital ear thermometer has many advantages over other designs of thermometer when you need to check your infants temperature. For many years the medical profession and parents alike would use a mercury filled glass thermometer. Although they would provide a reasonably accurate temperature reading they had several disadvantages when compared with modern infra-red digital thermometers.

Several other different ideas have been tried including the plastic strip variety that is placed and held against a child's forehead. The readout is often indicated by highlighted coloured section which at best is only an approximate indication of the true temperature.

When an infant with an immature immune system falls ill there is a need to quickly obtain a true measure of their temperature in order to gauge whether the situation is a medical emergency. The new style of digital ear thermometer is not only faster but considerably safer. There is no danger that a child could accidentally bite and break it as could happen with the glass type.

Here is a short list of advantages of using an infra-red digital ear thermometer:
Convenient. Unwell infants fight and struggle which makes taking a temperature difficult but an ear thermometer gets the reading super quick. Accurate. These thermometers take their reading from the tympanic membrane (eardrum) which provides a very accurate measurement because it shares the same blood supply as the brain's temperature control centre, the ideal place to perform this vital check. Fast. Other types of thermometer can take a minute of more to take a temperature whereas the digital variety takes mere seconds, a big plus when dealing with a squirming infant. Hygienic. By using one time use plastic filters over the nozzle and discarding them, contamination and cross infection of others is eliminated while cleanliness is maintained. Simplicity. The 'click of a button' control makes this kind of thermometer easy to use, quick and very convenient. Comfort.From babies to older children all dislike being prodded, probed and unfamiliar things placed their mouths which can also scare them. An ear thermometer is gentle and comfortable for tiny, delicate ears. Uncomplicated. The simple digital number readout gives accurate and clear results that leave no room for doubt or guesswork. When anyone falls ill it is important to understand just how they are and testing their temperature can give a true picture of the situation. This matter is even more vital when dealing with children who are prone to all manner of health problems. The need for fast accurate results when urgent medical attention is required can be obtained with confidence thanks to an infra-red digital ear thermometer.

An infrared heat gun can help you get a thorough understanding of where your home is losing heat in cold weather, or gaining it in hot weather. The more you know about where heat is entering or leaving your house, the more effective you'll be at controlling energy waste.

With an infrared heat detector, you just wander around the inside and outside of your home on a hot summer day or a cold winter evening, and take readings at windows, outside doors, walls, or wherever else heat may leak through. The device helps you get a detailed picture of problems with insulation, sealing, or windows in need of an upgrade.

Professional energy efficiency auditors often use an infrared camera to show you where you're losing or gaining heat, but thermal imaging devices are expensive and the audit itself can cost you more than 0. An infrared point-and-shoot thermometer doesn't provide the same pretty printout, but they sell for about , so they put this level of detail within reach of the average homeowner.

Most infrared point-and-shoot thermometers come with a beam ratio of 1:12, which means that if you point the gun at a wall 12 feet away, then take a reading, you'll get a reading for a one square foot section of the wall. These guns also come with a laser beam so you can see exactly what spot the reading was done from.

I recommend beginning your infrared thermal audit from outside. Standing 12 feet from the wall, take a series of readings with your infrared heat detector to get an idea of what the baseline temperature is. You are looking for the coolest temperature in winter, or the warmest in summer when the AC is running.

Don't take measurements on a wall in sunlight, which can mess up your results. Instead, wait for cloud cover, for evening, or for the sun to move.

Note each measurement on a sketch of the house face or in ordinary notes. Pay particular attention to window temperatures, because windows are major sources of heat leakage in both hot and cold weather. You might benefit from an inside helper to close shades and curtains after your first reading so you can then note the impact of these window coverings on stopping thermal leakage.

Where measurements are considerably worse than your baseline (warmer in winter, colder in summer), take more readings nearby, to locate the extent of the thermal leak. You may have gaps in, or settled insulation, cracks in the wall surface, or a gap in a window or door.

Next do an indoor thermal audit of the exterior walls, floor, and ceiling of each room. Choose an inside wall as your baseline; exterior wall temperatures should be colder than the baseline in cold weather, or hotter in summer. Again, you are looking for thermal leaks on window panes, around windows and doors, through light fixtures, in cracks in drywall or plaster, or anywhere that is touching an outside wall. Take close-up measurements of any wall outlets or light switches that are close to the exterior, even if they are on an interior wall.

Check the temperatures of upstairs ceilings, as insulation, especially blown in insulation, can get pressed or matted down in leaky attics. For summer measurements, do your ceiling readings twice: once early in the morning before the sun has heated the attic space, and once in the afternoon when the attic is hot, so you can see how much of that heat leaks into your living space.

Chances are that windows without their window coverings are your biggest heat leaks, as even the most efficient windows have a much lower R-value than most walls or ceilings. You can either upgrade old windows with more efficient ones, add thermal curtains or blinds, or apply thermal barrier window film to the window pane itself.

You will also probably find drafts in walls, particularly at light fixtures or where wires or pipes enter the home. You should seal these as much as possible, as drafts can be big energy leaks. Caulk around the edges of window frames; use wall outlet insulating foam to prevent air from flowing through the outlets. Your bricks may need tuck pointing, or you may have a more serious problem: settled cellulose insulation between wall studs, in which case the only remedy is to gut the room from within and put in new insulation and drywall. If the walls have no insulation at all you may just be able to inject foam insulation, which is a cheaper option.

You should consider doing your own mini-audit with your infrared gun first, and ask for contractor estimates later. If you have identified your big thermal leaks, you'll be able to ask each contractor what solutions they recommend to your problem. Inviting a contractor over and just telling them the house gets too cold in winter, or boiling hot in summer, means inviting major repairs that might not help at all.

You can use an infrared heat detector for countless other measurements around the home, such as checking hot water pipe temperature before and after adding pipe wrap; reading the temperature coming out of forced air registers and going into the air return register, if you have central AC, to gauge air conditioner efficiency; measuring cooking temperatures on your stove; or finding the best location in your basement for a wine cellar.

Whatever model infrared gun you choose, you will doubtless get many hours of use out of it, locating the hot spots and cold spots in your walls, floors and ceilings, your garage, your fridge, freezer, your car engine - anywhere you need to know the surface temperature. You can even use it to measure the temperature of your compost pile - without getting your hands dirty!

Before you start to solder using a toaster oven, you will need several tools and items. This article describes what is needed for the process, including a modification to the oven, various tools, and a description of how to make a low cost vacuum pickup tool.

The first item is the toaster oven. You can use any kind of toaster oven, but generally I would not recommend the very small ones. The medium sized ones seem to work best. Whichever one you get, it must have a glass door on the front so that you can see what is happening inside the oven without opening the door.

You will also need a digital thermometer and a thermocouple. You can buy these from your local electronics store.

The thermocouple looks like a long wire with a connector on the end. The connector end plugs into the digital thermometer outside the oven, and the other end goes around the edge of the oven door and into the oven cavity.

It is also important to have a stopwatch, so that you can monitor the time as the temperature changes inside the oven.

You will need to make the following modification to your toaster oven so that your boards don't get toasted by direct infra red radiation from the heating elements.

The objective is for the heater elements to simply heat the air inside the oven, so a direct line of infra red heat straight from the elements to the circuit board must be avoided.

The way to achieve this is to get some thin sheet aluminium and make a cut-out shape that just covers up the elements. You can use a disposable baking tray from the supermarket to make this aluminium shield.

The aluminium sheet can be attached by weaving it through one oven the oven rack slides. This will hold it in place.

Make one of these aluminium shields for both the top and bottom heating elements inside your oven.

The next item is a solder paste gun. This is the easiest way to apply little dots of solder paste to the surface mount pads for the chip components.

I use AIM solder cream, but any kind of lead based solder paste is suitable for this process. You can purchase a solder gun and solder paste from your local specialist soldering equipment supplier. I purchased these items from Okay electronic solutions here in Australia.

Now we will discuss how to make a vacuum pickup tool from a small fish tank air pump, which you can get for about ten dollars from your local aquarium shop or pet shop. I will describe the way that I made the modifications.

I removed the case of the air pump so that I could access the air inlet hole of the pump. Then I simply fitted a small plastic nozzle that I got from a syringe dispenser. Attached to that is a short length of 3mm vinyl air hose, which I got from the aquarium shop. Then another nozzle made from metal, which came from another syringe dispenser.

You can get these nozzles from your local specialist soldering equipment supplier. The nozzles generally come with some syringe dispensing kits but you may also be able to purchase them separately.

To use this low cost but effective vacuum pickup tool, simply turn on the pump and bring the nozzle down onto the top of the chip component. The component will be sucked and held onto the end of the nozzle. Then bring the chip component over to the circuit board pads which have been dotted with solderpaste. Place the component down. The solderpaste is sticky enough to grab the component and hold it in place. No vacuum release is necessary.

That covers all the items that you will need to solder using a toaster oven, including a modification to the oven, various tools, and a description of how to make a low cost vacuum pickup tool.

Bearded Dragons - Basic care

Bearded dragons can make wonderful pet lizards, with fantastic and fascinating behaviours they are often sold as the perfect 'beginner' lizard. However much care and thought should be put into buying one as a pet. As with all lizards, they are a long-term commitment and have specialist requirements, which need to be understood.

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; although many of the Bearded Dragons sold are captive bred, meaning they are generally healthier specimens. The lifespan of a Beardie is usually around 7 years, which is why careful consideration must be put into owning one! Due to their natural habitats they are terrestrial creatures that like to occasionally climb. They are generally docile creatures that show a lot of expression through body language, so they can be fascinating to watch. They are also one of the few lizards that will tame nicely and some can become quite friendly toward their owners, however you should still keep in mind that they usually prefer their own space.

Housing a Beardie

Bearded dragons are endothermic, like all lizards, meaning they take their heat from their surroundings. With this in mind their enclosure needs to have adequate space and placement to allow them to regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself should be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no less than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height should be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie to climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches should be available.

There are several types of vivarium available, from the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to the all glass type. Either is sufficient, however the wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectively and reduce stress as the wooden sides don't create reflection like glass vivariums and create secluded corners for your pet to retreat to. However some glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the top and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better air movement than the wooden types.

Whatever type of vivarium you choose, placement in your home is important and should be carefully considered before buying. The vivarium should not be placed in draughts or next to radiators, not should it be placed in direct sunlight. All these things will change the temperature of the enclosure and this can lead to problems with your pet. It should also be placed somewhere quiet, where there isn't a lot of 'traffic' or noise either from people or household appliances. Lastly, careful consideration should be put into whether the vivarium is accessible to other pets or younger children who may be overly inquisitive! This also brings about the last point, always make sure the vivarium is secured, either with it's own locking system or a traditional 'viv lock'!

Heat and lighting

Beardies require a temperature gradient of around 30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25 degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spot reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed. Creating this gradient is the key to beardie success as it governs all of their habits and workings.

So how do you create the correct temperature gradient for a Bearded Dragon? Well, it partly depends on the type of vivarium you have. The main tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with a thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UV lighting).

The general method for creating this gradient means putting a heat mat under the substrate at one end of the vivarium, it should cover around half of the vivarium floor. The heat mat works on infrared and will literally heat the substrate and therefore your lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control the heat mats output, avoiding it from getting too hot, as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time. You should also place a thermometer at each end to check the gradients.

At the same end a basking light should be mounted. This will provide your lizard the area of concentrated heat it needs as well as heating the air in the vivarium, known as 'ambient heat. How you mount the bulb will depend on the type of vivarium you have. Glass vivariums presuming they have a mesh top can simply have the bulb and lighting unit stood on top of the vivarium. Some vivariums have special units that can clip onto the top. If your vivarium is wooden you can use a standard light fitment and affix the bulb to the wood, inside the enclosure. Sometimes the wooden type vivariums have these prefitted. If you have this type of vivarium you need to also purchase a light guard that can fit onto the bulb fitment ensuring your beardie doesn't climb onto the light, burning itself.

The wattage of the light also needs to be carefully considered. Generally smaller enclosures require a smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are good standards although larger cages may need 150w. It is also important to remember glass will not insulate the enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums, therefore may require a higher wattage. The best thing to do is to ask your local pet store on the specifics of your tank, going from there you can experiment until you are satisfied. This also emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium and running it for a bit to see what needs changing and so on.

Lastly, UV lighting is needed for Beardies. Without proper lighting your beardie cannot manufacture the vitamins he needs from food. This can cause serious implications for your Beardie. Usually a UV light strip, manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put at the centre toward the top back of the vivarium, allowing even light dispersal. The light is usually powered by a starter unit, which allows you to power the light as well as mount it. Some vivariums come with them already fitted and some, such as glass vivariums can have special units that fit on the top of the mesh.

The light itself should be around 10.00 UV level, if you are unsure when buying it is best to ask! The light should be replaced around every six months to ensure its UV output is still at optimum levels. To replicate the environment that a beardie is naturally in you should keep both the basking lamp and fluorescent light on for no more than 14 hours. In the winter months this should be decreased to around 12 hours. After this 'day' period you should turn off the fluorescent light and either dim or turn off the basking light. It is generally better to dim the basking light so there is still some heat being produced in the basking area. You can buy a range of timers and dimmers for this purpose although they are not necessary as you can just turn it off manually.

Cage decor for the Beardie

Beardies require only the most basic decor, substrate, water bowl and somewhere to hide and climb. However you may prefer to create a more stimulating environment both for you and your beardie!

Substrate is the most important thing. It should be carefully considered, there are many different opinions on substrate types, so you should generally use your good sense when choosing. It is important to remember the age of the beardie, fine substrates can be swallowed easily and cause impaction in young lizards. You also need to keep in mind how clean the substrate will be, how easy will it be for you to spot clean? Also, substrate should not be more than an inch thick, as this will stop the heat mat from working properly.

Generally people use sand for older beardies, it is easy to clean and looks natural. There are several types of sand, from calcium sand to fine 'repti-sand'. Which one you use is up to you and how well your beardie responds to it.

You can also consider shelf liner, reptile carpet or newspaper, especially for younger Beardies as it reduces the risk of impaction. However it doesn't look as nice and some people have disputed the cleanliness of such materials, as they can be difficult to clean.

Some people even use ceramic tiles or large slate pieces, although they don't look as good they are easy to clean and heat up rather well under the basking light. However it is important to keep in mind the change to temperature it may cause. As a general rule you should do as much research on substrate and try to decide what you feel is the best for you and your beardie.

After you have decided on substrate you need to now focus on other essentials, like water bowls. The water bowl should be big enough for your beardie to get in but not deep enough for it to not be able to get out again! Some people use large ceramic dog bowls, which are easy to clean. You can also purchase resin bowls, which are also easy to clean and tend to be moulded to look like rocks, enhancing the enclosure's look. It is again, down to personal preference. The positioning of the bowl is important. It needs to be positioned at the coolest end of the vivarium, to ensure the gradient is maintained. You may also want to purchase feeding bowls, in order to contain insects and other foods stuffs.

Another essential is a hiding spot for your beardie. This can be anything from pieces of cork bark and mopani/bogwood carefully and securely stacked, to shaped hides, made from resin, wood or similar materials. This, again, needs to be put at the coolest end of the vivarium as most lizards when hiding prefer to be cool and temperatures inside the hide will rise if put too close to the basking lamp.

Additional decor isn't needed, but will make the enclosure a lot nicer for both you and your pet. Things such as plastic plants, branches, slate and rocks can be placed to provide areas for climbing, basking and hiding. Be careful not to put live plants in, as they may be harmful. You should also try to buy wooden branches, as they will be free from pests. When placing decor keep in mind that Beardies are can be heavy and so items should be secure and no sharp edges present.

Cleaning your Beardies Enclosure

Having a clean enclosure is very important, dirty conditions will lead to disease and general discomfort for your pet as well as putting you at risk.

It is important you spot clean. When you see 'deposits' or loose skin from shedding you should safely remove it and any affected bedding. If any of the decor becomes soiled you should clean it with a lizard safe disinfectant and rinse with water.

Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily with lizard safe disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly.

You should completely clean the vivarium at least every three months, completely changing the substrate, cleaning the decor and vivarium with disinfectant and rinsing with water.

Feeding your Beardie

Careful consideration should go into your bearded dragons diet, as it will largely determine the health of you pet. Bearded dragons will eat a mixture of vegetables and live insects. If you are not comfortable feeding insects, you should consider if a lizard is the best choice for you as ultimately you need to think of it's health first.

If you are okay with feeding live insects, feeding time can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Firstly you need to understand how much a bearded dragon likes to eat. They have high metabolisms and therefore should have food available for the majority of the time. This can come in the form of mealworms, dried food and vegetables, with things such as crickets or locusts completing the diet. You should never leave insects such as locusts or crickets in the enclosure for a long time as they will nibble your pet, causing annoyance and pain.

You also need to provide fresh water everyday. Although desert creatures, they need water. Some of this is obtained through food although they will enjoy the very occasional misting of water.

When feeding your dragon, it is best to give it no more food than can be consumed within 10 minutes, with the exception of vegetation, which can be left in for the day. Insects should be removed after 10-15 minutes and vegetation and dry foods removed at the end of the day.

A young bearded dragon should be fed on small amounts of small brown crickets 2-3 times a day. Mealworms should be excluded from their diet at this stage. This is the same for young or 'sub' adult beardies. When feeding crickets, they should be no bigger than the size of the gap in between their eyes.

Young Beardies can also be fed on commercial foods, specially formulated for young bearded dragons. This should be fed in accordance to the manufacturer's instructions.

An adult Beardie can be fed larger crickets, 2-3 times a day. They may also be willing to take locusts. New foods can be introduced to the adult Beardie, including mealworms, which can be left in a suitable bowl in the enclosure. Wax worms can also make a delicious treat for your Beardie, however they should be given in moderation, both to stop selective eating and weight gain!

Adult bearded dragons will also love to eat vegetables; spring greens are a particular favourite. Make sure you wash any vegetables you provide, ensuring any pesticides or preservatives have been removed.

You can also feed manufactured dry foods formulated especially for adult beardies and always in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

Shedding in Beardies

As your Bearded Dragon grows, it will shed its skin. During this time it may be less inclined to be 'active' and may dislike being held. It is important that you don't pull or try to 'help' you pet shed. It is quite capable of rubbing it off on decor items within its enclosure. Unlike snakes, the skin will fall off in parts, so don't be alarmed! If you think it's having trouble shedding you can give it a light mist with some lukewarm water.

Problems you may encounter

Beardies rarely encounter problems if kept properly, however if your beardie does become ill this will help you to know what to do next!

Impaction

This comes from the beardie eating too much or eating fine substrates or other foreign objects, such as sand, plastic plants, small pebbles and so on. Signs include loss of appetite, sluggish behaviour, bloated or discoloured abdomen, hiding away and not passing stools. It can, in early stages, be solved by firstly removing any possible causes, reducing food and bathing for 10-15 mins in warm (not hot) water everyday to encourage the lizard to pass stools and the blockage.

If symptoms persist you should seek veterinary treatment.

Mites

Caused by unsanitary conditions, infection from external causes or contact with other infected animals or objects. It is more common on wild caught specimens. Signs include the beardie rubbing on items, scales looking 'lifted' and small brown, white, tan or black specks embedded between scales. You may also see 'specks' running over the surface, particularly near the vent, eyes, mouth and joints. Usually a pre-prepared solution, applied as directed gets rid of the mites on the animal. You should also do a complete clean of the cage and bedding, making sure to soak decor in hot water and buy new bedding. You should also try to find the source of the problem and deal with it accordingly.

Sometimes the problem can be more persistent, in which case treatment from a vet may be required.

Injuries

Sometimes, through climbing or if kept together, fighting, your pet may sustain an injury. A little iodine applied to minor injuries can ensure no infection happens, although it is generally better to seek veterinarian advice. You should always seek a vet's advice for breaks and larger injuries.

Tail/Scale rot

Caused by keeping the enclosure too wet or by keeping the lizard in unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include blackening of the area, softening of the skin and general unhealthy appearance. You should clean the Beardies enclosure and make sure it is kept dry. Because this is an infection a vet's advice should be sought.

Coccidia

This is a intestinal parasite, rarely contracted by captive bred Beardies, however in the case of your pet contracting it you will see sluggish behaviour, diarrhoea, bloating of the abdomen and fluid loss (characterized by 'wrinkly' skin that sticks as wrinkles and appears baggy) You should consult your vet if this occurs.

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

Rare in well looked after specimens, this comes from ongoing poor nutrition and inefficient lighting exposure (lack of UV) it will cause softening of bone tissue, particularly in jaw tail and spine. It will cause bones to break easily and slow the rate of growth. The only cure for this is usually prevention, which is why it is important to give your pet the correct nutrition. If you have acquired a specimen with MBD you should seek a vets advice.

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