Best Buy Infrared Thermometer Laser - Review And Compare Price

Thermometer technology has improved vastly in recent times. Lately, a new kind of thermometer-the laser thermometer-is becoming much talked about. As the name suggests, this thermometer works on the laser principle. But that's all most people know about them. Let's get to know these thermometers in a bit more detail here.

What Are Laser Thermometers?

These are thermometers that work on the principle of laser. When any substance is hot, it radiates this heat from all of its parts. This causes the molecules in this area to vibrate with greater velocity. Laser can measure this increase in velocity, and this is then converted into a temperature reading. This is the reading that a laser thermometer provides.

The shape of these thermometers is more or less like a gun. There's a region from where the laser is emitted. The laser ray is directly pointed to the surface whose temperature is to be measured. Though the path of the ray cannot be seen clearly, the point at which the ray touches the surface can be seen as a bright red dot. Within moments, the temperature of this incident area is reported by the thermometer.

Since any hot body will emit an equal amount of heat radiation from all of its parts, these laser based thermometers can be pointed at any point on the surface of the body. The reading is almost similar, irrespective of where this actual point is located. This becomes an advantage of laser thermometers over other thermometers, which need to be positioned in specific ways on the body whose temperature is to be measured.

Advantages

1. Laser thermometers don't really need to be brought in contact with the object whose temperature needs to be measured. They can even measure temperature from a remote location. It is only necessary that the path of the laser shouldn't be obstructed. It is for this reason that the laser-based thermometers are also called as non-touch thermometers.

2. The results are instantaneous. This is a great benefit, especially when creating clinical thermometers for infants. By using thermometers that work on the laser principle, it is no longer necessary to place the thermometer on the patient's body and wait for a minute before taking the reading.

3. All these thermometers are digital, which makes it much easier to get readings from them.

Applications

These thermometers find a lot of versatile uses.

1. They are used in measuring body temperatures, especially in the form of ear thermometers, which are extensively used for measuring body temperature in babies.

2. They are used to find the temperature of food. Whether food is just removed from the refrigerator or from the oven, these thermometers can accurately tell what its temperature is, which helps you decide whether you want to eat the food or wait a while.

3. They are used in industry in determining places where there might be heat leakages. A routine laser thermometer scan of the whole area will show if there's any place where there's excessive heating.

4. Similarly, they are used by firefighters. If a particular area is just about to catch fire, a laser thermometer will be able to find its increased temperature in advance, and hence it will give the firefighters some advance warning.

A garage is an ideal place to store all your things and also your gear for activities, tools and also equipment; as well as its initial function for vehicle parking to pursuits just like a home business office, a fitness center or perhaps a workshop. If the garage is useful for storage space instead of alternative activities it genuinely requires a few shelves for organization.

Typically garage shelving is found in a couple of primary types: site-built and prefabricated. Site designed shelving is typically less costly and also allows you to adjust the dimensions to the space or room offered. You will find all that you need in the nearby home center, lumber yard or home improvement store. Among the basics with the garage shelving consists of a quick section of ¾" plywood or perhaps a length of 1x and 2 x woods upon some heavy-duty shelf mounting brackets. This can be installed by hanging the mounting brackets on the studs' direct making use of long screws after that through hanging that shelf on the mounting brackets. In order to reinforce the shelf it is possible to put in a brace at every stud.

Another kind of shelf is the floor supported. This solution would be to install top to bottom 2x4s each spaced 50 inches apart and rest them on the floor and then affixing them to the rafters or even ceiling joists at the very top. Also, the actual 2x4s will be run flat on edge in between the uprights next the plywood is needed to make the actual shelf. One of the most widely used measurements is usually 19-25 inches regarding depth plus the space in between 2x4s is generally 25 inches. However, all these dimensions could be altered to allow for how big the things that you're keeping.

With regard to keeping small things you ought to consider the actual room in between the studs. Through affixing a number of 1x2 strips horizontally on the inside sides regarding 2 adjacent studs roughly 6 ins apart, cutting several 1x4 and also 1x6 sections of wood then installing them in between studs and sliding these over the actual 1x2s you'll be able to generate several little flexible shelves. They are excellent for containers, cans as well as bottles plus for additional tiny, light objects. The smaller shelves are wonderful for coordinating and also keeping screws and nails.

The very best option any time making prefabricated garage shelving is metal shelves. Plastic-type shelves might be sufficient for keeping light weight things however in time you will need a little something far more resilient with regard to keeping weightier objects. A single drawback to the metal shelves is the fact they can't be cut to length therefore they have typical widths, depths and also height. You will have to select something which suits your own available area.

Adjustability will be another necessary concern with prefabricated shelves. Partially put together shelving ought to be flexible to a minimum of 2 distinct locations inside the shelves framework as well as the pins with regard to modifying ought to be durable and must have one thing in place for protecting against these from coming unfastened or perhaps getting unintentionally dislodged.

One more thing to be considered anytime you're deciding partially put together shelving, especially those created for weighty loads, is they might need a wall connection or some other attachment to protect against tipping.

Using a digital ear thermometer has many advantages over other designs of thermometer when you need to check your infants temperature. For many years the medical profession and parents alike would use a mercury filled glass thermometer. Although they would provide a reasonably accurate temperature reading they had several disadvantages when compared with modern infra-red digital thermometers.

Several other different ideas have been tried including the plastic strip variety that is placed and held against a child's forehead. The readout is often indicated by highlighted coloured section which at best is only an approximate indication of the true temperature.

When an infant with an immature immune system falls ill there is a need to quickly obtain a true measure of their temperature in order to gauge whether the situation is a medical emergency. The new style of digital ear thermometer is not only faster but considerably safer. There is no danger that a child could accidentally bite and break it as could happen with the glass type.

Here is a short list of advantages of using an infra-red digital ear thermometer:
Convenient. Unwell infants fight and struggle which makes taking a temperature difficult but an ear thermometer gets the reading super quick. Accurate. These thermometers take their reading from the tympanic membrane (eardrum) which provides a very accurate measurement because it shares the same blood supply as the brain's temperature control centre, the ideal place to perform this vital check. Fast. Other types of thermometer can take a minute of more to take a temperature whereas the digital variety takes mere seconds, a big plus when dealing with a squirming infant. Hygienic. By using one time use plastic filters over the nozzle and discarding them, contamination and cross infection of others is eliminated while cleanliness is maintained. Simplicity. The 'click of a button' control makes this kind of thermometer easy to use, quick and very convenient. Comfort.From babies to older children all dislike being prodded, probed and unfamiliar things placed their mouths which can also scare them. An ear thermometer is gentle and comfortable for tiny, delicate ears. Uncomplicated. The simple digital number readout gives accurate and clear results that leave no room for doubt or guesswork. When anyone falls ill it is important to understand just how they are and testing their temperature can give a true picture of the situation. This matter is even more vital when dealing with children who are prone to all manner of health problems. The need for fast accurate results when urgent medical attention is required can be obtained with confidence thanks to an infra-red digital ear thermometer.

An infrared heat gun can help you get a thorough understanding of where your home is losing heat in cold weather, or gaining it in hot weather. The more you know about where heat is entering or leaving your house, the more effective you'll be at controlling energy waste.

With an infrared heat detector, you just wander around the inside and outside of your home on a hot summer day or a cold winter evening, and take readings at windows, outside doors, walls, or wherever else heat may leak through. The device helps you get a detailed picture of problems with insulation, sealing, or windows in need of an upgrade.

Professional energy efficiency auditors often use an infrared camera to show you where you're losing or gaining heat, but thermal imaging devices are expensive and the audit itself can cost you more than 0. An infrared point-and-shoot thermometer doesn't provide the same pretty printout, but they sell for about , so they put this level of detail within reach of the average homeowner.

Most infrared point-and-shoot thermometers come with a beam ratio of 1:12, which means that if you point the gun at a wall 12 feet away, then take a reading, you'll get a reading for a one square foot section of the wall. These guns also come with a laser beam so you can see exactly what spot the reading was done from.

I recommend beginning your infrared thermal audit from outside. Standing 12 feet from the wall, take a series of readings with your infrared heat detector to get an idea of what the baseline temperature is. You are looking for the coolest temperature in winter, or the warmest in summer when the AC is running.

Don't take measurements on a wall in sunlight, which can mess up your results. Instead, wait for cloud cover, for evening, or for the sun to move.

Note each measurement on a sketch of the house face or in ordinary notes. Pay particular attention to window temperatures, because windows are major sources of heat leakage in both hot and cold weather. You might benefit from an inside helper to close shades and curtains after your first reading so you can then note the impact of these window coverings on stopping thermal leakage.

Where measurements are considerably worse than your baseline (warmer in winter, colder in summer), take more readings nearby, to locate the extent of the thermal leak. You may have gaps in, or settled insulation, cracks in the wall surface, or a gap in a window or door.

Next do an indoor thermal audit of the exterior walls, floor, and ceiling of each room. Choose an inside wall as your baseline; exterior wall temperatures should be colder than the baseline in cold weather, or hotter in summer. Again, you are looking for thermal leaks on window panes, around windows and doors, through light fixtures, in cracks in drywall or plaster, or anywhere that is touching an outside wall. Take close-up measurements of any wall outlets or light switches that are close to the exterior, even if they are on an interior wall.

Check the temperatures of upstairs ceilings, as insulation, especially blown in insulation, can get pressed or matted down in leaky attics. For summer measurements, do your ceiling readings twice: once early in the morning before the sun has heated the attic space, and once in the afternoon when the attic is hot, so you can see how much of that heat leaks into your living space.

Chances are that windows without their window coverings are your biggest heat leaks, as even the most efficient windows have a much lower R-value than most walls or ceilings. You can either upgrade old windows with more efficient ones, add thermal curtains or blinds, or apply thermal barrier window film to the window pane itself.

You will also probably find drafts in walls, particularly at light fixtures or where wires or pipes enter the home. You should seal these as much as possible, as drafts can be big energy leaks. Caulk around the edges of window frames; use wall outlet insulating foam to prevent air from flowing through the outlets. Your bricks may need tuck pointing, or you may have a more serious problem: settled cellulose insulation between wall studs, in which case the only remedy is to gut the room from within and put in new insulation and drywall. If the walls have no insulation at all you may just be able to inject foam insulation, which is a cheaper option.

You should consider doing your own mini-audit with your infrared gun first, and ask for contractor estimates later. If you have identified your big thermal leaks, you'll be able to ask each contractor what solutions they recommend to your problem. Inviting a contractor over and just telling them the house gets too cold in winter, or boiling hot in summer, means inviting major repairs that might not help at all.

You can use an infrared heat detector for countless other measurements around the home, such as checking hot water pipe temperature before and after adding pipe wrap; reading the temperature coming out of forced air registers and going into the air return register, if you have central AC, to gauge air conditioner efficiency; measuring cooking temperatures on your stove; or finding the best location in your basement for a wine cellar.

Whatever model infrared gun you choose, you will doubtless get many hours of use out of it, locating the hot spots and cold spots in your walls, floors and ceilings, your garage, your fridge, freezer, your car engine - anywhere you need to know the surface temperature. You can even use it to measure the temperature of your compost pile - without getting your hands dirty!

Before you start to solder using a toaster oven, you will need several tools and items. This article describes what is needed for the process, including a modification to the oven, various tools, and a description of how to make a low cost vacuum pickup tool.

The first item is the toaster oven. You can use any kind of toaster oven, but generally I would not recommend the very small ones. The medium sized ones seem to work best. Whichever one you get, it must have a glass door on the front so that you can see what is happening inside the oven without opening the door.

You will also need a digital thermometer and a thermocouple. You can buy these from your local electronics store.

The thermocouple looks like a long wire with a connector on the end. The connector end plugs into the digital thermometer outside the oven, and the other end goes around the edge of the oven door and into the oven cavity.

It is also important to have a stopwatch, so that you can monitor the time as the temperature changes inside the oven.

You will need to make the following modification to your toaster oven so that your boards don't get toasted by direct infra red radiation from the heating elements.

The objective is for the heater elements to simply heat the air inside the oven, so a direct line of infra red heat straight from the elements to the circuit board must be avoided.

The way to achieve this is to get some thin sheet aluminium and make a cut-out shape that just covers up the elements. You can use a disposable baking tray from the supermarket to make this aluminium shield.

The aluminium sheet can be attached by weaving it through one oven the oven rack slides. This will hold it in place.

Make one of these aluminium shields for both the top and bottom heating elements inside your oven.

The next item is a solder paste gun. This is the easiest way to apply little dots of solder paste to the surface mount pads for the chip components.

I use AIM solder cream, but any kind of lead based solder paste is suitable for this process. You can purchase a solder gun and solder paste from your local specialist soldering equipment supplier. I purchased these items from Okay electronic solutions here in Australia.

Now we will discuss how to make a vacuum pickup tool from a small fish tank air pump, which you can get for about ten dollars from your local aquarium shop or pet shop. I will describe the way that I made the modifications.

I removed the case of the air pump so that I could access the air inlet hole of the pump. Then I simply fitted a small plastic nozzle that I got from a syringe dispenser. Attached to that is a short length of 3mm vinyl air hose, which I got from the aquarium shop. Then another nozzle made from metal, which came from another syringe dispenser.

You can get these nozzles from your local specialist soldering equipment supplier. The nozzles generally come with some syringe dispensing kits but you may also be able to purchase them separately.

To use this low cost but effective vacuum pickup tool, simply turn on the pump and bring the nozzle down onto the top of the chip component. The component will be sucked and held onto the end of the nozzle. Then bring the chip component over to the circuit board pads which have been dotted with solderpaste. Place the component down. The solderpaste is sticky enough to grab the component and hold it in place. No vacuum release is necessary.

That covers all the items that you will need to solder using a toaster oven, including a modification to the oven, various tools, and a description of how to make a low cost vacuum pickup tool.

Bearded Dragons - Basic care

Bearded dragons can make wonderful pet lizards, with fantastic and fascinating behaviours they are often sold as the perfect 'beginner' lizard. However much care and thought should be put into buying one as a pet. As with all lizards, they are a long-term commitment and have specialist requirements, which need to be understood.

Bearded dragons originate from Australia; although many of the Bearded Dragons sold are captive bred, meaning they are generally healthier specimens. The lifespan of a Beardie is usually around 7 years, which is why careful consideration must be put into owning one! Due to their natural habitats they are terrestrial creatures that like to occasionally climb. They are generally docile creatures that show a lot of expression through body language, so they can be fascinating to watch. They are also one of the few lizards that will tame nicely and some can become quite friendly toward their owners, however you should still keep in mind that they usually prefer their own space.

Housing a Beardie

Bearded dragons are endothermic, like all lizards, meaning they take their heat from their surroundings. With this in mind their enclosure needs to have adequate space and placement to allow them to regulate their temperature. The vivarium itself should be around 36 Inches to 42 inches long and of no less than 18 to 24 Inches widthways. The height should be adequate to place decor and allow the Beardie to climb, so a height of around 18 to 24 Inches should be available.

There are several types of vivarium available, from the usual ply board and sliding glass door type to the all glass type. Either is sufficient, however the wooden types tend to keep heat in more effectively and reduce stress as the wooden sides don't create reflection like glass vivariums and create secluded corners for your pet to retreat to. However some glass vivariums come with metal mesh on the top and ventilation on the doors, allowing for better air movement than the wooden types.

Whatever type of vivarium you choose, placement in your home is important and should be carefully considered before buying. The vivarium should not be placed in draughts or next to radiators, not should it be placed in direct sunlight. All these things will change the temperature of the enclosure and this can lead to problems with your pet. It should also be placed somewhere quiet, where there isn't a lot of 'traffic' or noise either from people or household appliances. Lastly, careful consideration should be put into whether the vivarium is accessible to other pets or younger children who may be overly inquisitive! This also brings about the last point, always make sure the vivarium is secured, either with it's own locking system or a traditional 'viv lock'!

Heat and lighting

Beardies require a temperature gradient of around 30-35 degrees Celsius at the hottest end and 20-25 degrees Celsius at the coolest end. A basking spot reaching around 40 degrees Celsius is also needed. Creating this gradient is the key to beardie success as it governs all of their habits and workings.

So how do you create the correct temperature gradient for a Bearded Dragon? Well, it partly depends on the type of vivarium you have. The main tools of heating are a heat mat (regulated with a thermostat) and a basking spotlight (in addition to UV lighting).

The general method for creating this gradient means putting a heat mat under the substrate at one end of the vivarium, it should cover around half of the vivarium floor. The heat mat works on infrared and will literally heat the substrate and therefore your lizard. A thermostat is usually required to control the heat mats output, avoiding it from getting too hot, as the heat mat needs to stay on all of the time. You should also place a thermometer at each end to check the gradients.

At the same end a basking light should be mounted. This will provide your lizard the area of concentrated heat it needs as well as heating the air in the vivarium, known as 'ambient heat. How you mount the bulb will depend on the type of vivarium you have. Glass vivariums presuming they have a mesh top can simply have the bulb and lighting unit stood on top of the vivarium. Some vivariums have special units that can clip onto the top. If your vivarium is wooden you can use a standard light fitment and affix the bulb to the wood, inside the enclosure. Sometimes the wooden type vivariums have these prefitted. If you have this type of vivarium you need to also purchase a light guard that can fit onto the bulb fitment ensuring your beardie doesn't climb onto the light, burning itself.

The wattage of the light also needs to be carefully considered. Generally smaller enclosures require a smaller wattage, 50, 75 and 100 watts are good standards although larger cages may need 150w. It is also important to remember glass will not insulate the enclosure as well as wooden sided vivariums, therefore may require a higher wattage. The best thing to do is to ask your local pet store on the specifics of your tank, going from there you can experiment until you are satisfied. This also emphasizes the need to set up your vivarium and running it for a bit to see what needs changing and so on.

Lastly, UV lighting is needed for Beardies. Without proper lighting your beardie cannot manufacture the vitamins he needs from food. This can cause serious implications for your Beardie. Usually a UV light strip, manufactured especially for use in vivariums, is put at the centre toward the top back of the vivarium, allowing even light dispersal. The light is usually powered by a starter unit, which allows you to power the light as well as mount it. Some vivariums come with them already fitted and some, such as glass vivariums can have special units that fit on the top of the mesh.

The light itself should be around 10.00 UV level, if you are unsure when buying it is best to ask! The light should be replaced around every six months to ensure its UV output is still at optimum levels. To replicate the environment that a beardie is naturally in you should keep both the basking lamp and fluorescent light on for no more than 14 hours. In the winter months this should be decreased to around 12 hours. After this 'day' period you should turn off the fluorescent light and either dim or turn off the basking light. It is generally better to dim the basking light so there is still some heat being produced in the basking area. You can buy a range of timers and dimmers for this purpose although they are not necessary as you can just turn it off manually.

Cage decor for the Beardie

Beardies require only the most basic decor, substrate, water bowl and somewhere to hide and climb. However you may prefer to create a more stimulating environment both for you and your beardie!

Substrate is the most important thing. It should be carefully considered, there are many different opinions on substrate types, so you should generally use your good sense when choosing. It is important to remember the age of the beardie, fine substrates can be swallowed easily and cause impaction in young lizards. You also need to keep in mind how clean the substrate will be, how easy will it be for you to spot clean? Also, substrate should not be more than an inch thick, as this will stop the heat mat from working properly.

Generally people use sand for older beardies, it is easy to clean and looks natural. There are several types of sand, from calcium sand to fine 'repti-sand'. Which one you use is up to you and how well your beardie responds to it.

You can also consider shelf liner, reptile carpet or newspaper, especially for younger Beardies as it reduces the risk of impaction. However it doesn't look as nice and some people have disputed the cleanliness of such materials, as they can be difficult to clean.

Some people even use ceramic tiles or large slate pieces, although they don't look as good they are easy to clean and heat up rather well under the basking light. However it is important to keep in mind the change to temperature it may cause. As a general rule you should do as much research on substrate and try to decide what you feel is the best for you and your beardie.

After you have decided on substrate you need to now focus on other essentials, like water bowls. The water bowl should be big enough for your beardie to get in but not deep enough for it to not be able to get out again! Some people use large ceramic dog bowls, which are easy to clean. You can also purchase resin bowls, which are also easy to clean and tend to be moulded to look like rocks, enhancing the enclosure's look. It is again, down to personal preference. The positioning of the bowl is important. It needs to be positioned at the coolest end of the vivarium, to ensure the gradient is maintained. You may also want to purchase feeding bowls, in order to contain insects and other foods stuffs.

Another essential is a hiding spot for your beardie. This can be anything from pieces of cork bark and mopani/bogwood carefully and securely stacked, to shaped hides, made from resin, wood or similar materials. This, again, needs to be put at the coolest end of the vivarium as most lizards when hiding prefer to be cool and temperatures inside the hide will rise if put too close to the basking lamp.

Additional decor isn't needed, but will make the enclosure a lot nicer for both you and your pet. Things such as plastic plants, branches, slate and rocks can be placed to provide areas for climbing, basking and hiding. Be careful not to put live plants in, as they may be harmful. You should also try to buy wooden branches, as they will be free from pests. When placing decor keep in mind that Beardies are can be heavy and so items should be secure and no sharp edges present.

Cleaning your Beardies Enclosure

Having a clean enclosure is very important, dirty conditions will lead to disease and general discomfort for your pet as well as putting you at risk.

It is important you spot clean. When you see 'deposits' or loose skin from shedding you should safely remove it and any affected bedding. If any of the decor becomes soiled you should clean it with a lizard safe disinfectant and rinse with water.

Food and water bowls should be cleaned daily with lizard safe disinfectant and rinsed thoroughly.

You should completely clean the vivarium at least every three months, completely changing the substrate, cleaning the decor and vivarium with disinfectant and rinsing with water.

Feeding your Beardie

Careful consideration should go into your bearded dragons diet, as it will largely determine the health of you pet. Bearded dragons will eat a mixture of vegetables and live insects. If you are not comfortable feeding insects, you should consider if a lizard is the best choice for you as ultimately you need to think of it's health first.

If you are okay with feeding live insects, feeding time can be a fun and rewarding experience.

Firstly you need to understand how much a bearded dragon likes to eat. They have high metabolisms and therefore should have food available for the majority of the time. This can come in the form of mealworms, dried food and vegetables, with things such as crickets or locusts completing the diet. You should never leave insects such as locusts or crickets in the enclosure for a long time as they will nibble your pet, causing annoyance and pain.

You also need to provide fresh water everyday. Although desert creatures, they need water. Some of this is obtained through food although they will enjoy the very occasional misting of water.

When feeding your dragon, it is best to give it no more food than can be consumed within 10 minutes, with the exception of vegetation, which can be left in for the day. Insects should be removed after 10-15 minutes and vegetation and dry foods removed at the end of the day.

A young bearded dragon should be fed on small amounts of small brown crickets 2-3 times a day. Mealworms should be excluded from their diet at this stage. This is the same for young or 'sub' adult beardies. When feeding crickets, they should be no bigger than the size of the gap in between their eyes.

Young Beardies can also be fed on commercial foods, specially formulated for young bearded dragons. This should be fed in accordance to the manufacturer's instructions.

An adult Beardie can be fed larger crickets, 2-3 times a day. They may also be willing to take locusts. New foods can be introduced to the adult Beardie, including mealworms, which can be left in a suitable bowl in the enclosure. Wax worms can also make a delicious treat for your Beardie, however they should be given in moderation, both to stop selective eating and weight gain!

Adult bearded dragons will also love to eat vegetables; spring greens are a particular favourite. Make sure you wash any vegetables you provide, ensuring any pesticides or preservatives have been removed.

You can also feed manufactured dry foods formulated especially for adult beardies and always in accordance with the manufacturers instructions.

Shedding in Beardies

As your Bearded Dragon grows, it will shed its skin. During this time it may be less inclined to be 'active' and may dislike being held. It is important that you don't pull or try to 'help' you pet shed. It is quite capable of rubbing it off on decor items within its enclosure. Unlike snakes, the skin will fall off in parts, so don't be alarmed! If you think it's having trouble shedding you can give it a light mist with some lukewarm water.

Problems you may encounter

Beardies rarely encounter problems if kept properly, however if your beardie does become ill this will help you to know what to do next!

Impaction

This comes from the beardie eating too much or eating fine substrates or other foreign objects, such as sand, plastic plants, small pebbles and so on. Signs include loss of appetite, sluggish behaviour, bloated or discoloured abdomen, hiding away and not passing stools. It can, in early stages, be solved by firstly removing any possible causes, reducing food and bathing for 10-15 mins in warm (not hot) water everyday to encourage the lizard to pass stools and the blockage.

If symptoms persist you should seek veterinary treatment.

Mites

Caused by unsanitary conditions, infection from external causes or contact with other infected animals or objects. It is more common on wild caught specimens. Signs include the beardie rubbing on items, scales looking 'lifted' and small brown, white, tan or black specks embedded between scales. You may also see 'specks' running over the surface, particularly near the vent, eyes, mouth and joints. Usually a pre-prepared solution, applied as directed gets rid of the mites on the animal. You should also do a complete clean of the cage and bedding, making sure to soak decor in hot water and buy new bedding. You should also try to find the source of the problem and deal with it accordingly.

Sometimes the problem can be more persistent, in which case treatment from a vet may be required.

Injuries

Sometimes, through climbing or if kept together, fighting, your pet may sustain an injury. A little iodine applied to minor injuries can ensure no infection happens, although it is generally better to seek veterinarian advice. You should always seek a vet's advice for breaks and larger injuries.

Tail/Scale rot

Caused by keeping the enclosure too wet or by keeping the lizard in unsanitary conditions. Symptoms include blackening of the area, softening of the skin and general unhealthy appearance. You should clean the Beardies enclosure and make sure it is kept dry. Because this is an infection a vet's advice should be sought.

Coccidia

This is a intestinal parasite, rarely contracted by captive bred Beardies, however in the case of your pet contracting it you will see sluggish behaviour, diarrhoea, bloating of the abdomen and fluid loss (characterized by 'wrinkly' skin that sticks as wrinkles and appears baggy) You should consult your vet if this occurs.

Metabolic bone disease (MBD)

Rare in well looked after specimens, this comes from ongoing poor nutrition and inefficient lighting exposure (lack of UV) it will cause softening of bone tissue, particularly in jaw tail and spine. It will cause bones to break easily and slow the rate of growth. The only cure for this is usually prevention, which is why it is important to give your pet the correct nutrition. If you have acquired a specimen with MBD you should seek a vets advice.

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Pork chops are one of the more popular choices of meat to grill because they are quite easy and very tasty. Pork chops come in all different shapes and sizes. If you have never tried grilling pork before or are just looking to try something different keep on reading.

The best pork chops for grilling are about one inch thick. It doesn't matter if its boneless or not, both will grill fine. Another option is to buy tenderloin or loin and cut it into pieces about the same same thickness.

If you want your pork nice and juicy you should try to brine it. The total weight of the pork can actually increase by up to 15% by soaking it in the water mixture. It is all water weight of course but that means more water remains in the meat during grilling. The brine solution is one cup of salt for every gallon of water and should be just enough to completely submerge your meat. You can add other seasoning as well to your brine mixture. Leave your pork chops in the mixture for 12 - 16 hours. Remember to make sure to not over do it because too much salt or brining for too long will leave your chops too salty to be eaten.

How long you cook your pork chops will change depending on a few factors. For example, how hot your grill is, how thick the cut of meat is, and whether or not its boneless. Of those factors, thickness is the most important when you grill chops. Thin chops will be grilled faster and thick chops will be grilled slower.

To actually grill pork chops is simple and you can use any type of grill available. You grill pork chops very similarly to steak, in other words, over a high heat without flipping much. You want to preheat your grill to as high as possible if you're using a gas grill. When its preheated, toss them on the grill and close the lid. After approximately one minute, rotate the chops 45 degrees. Close the lid and after a minute passes, flip them over. Rotate the meat as needed just like you did before. The pork chops should be done in around 4-6 minutes if you keep it on a high heat. If you have a particularly thick cut, you may need to turn down the heat after you flip the first time and cook for a longer period. Also if you are adding sauce to your chops do it with 3-4 minutes before they will be done or you can burn it.

In order to be safe, you want to cook pork until the middle is only very slightly pink or completely white. Another way to tell if your meat is done is to use a meat thermometer. 155 degrees is the magic number for pork.

After your pork chops are grilled you should put them on a plate and cover it with aluminum foil. Leave them their for 10 minutes. This will let your meat loosen up and get nice and juicy.

Spending time in a sauna is a great way to relax and rejuvenate. There is a lot of health benefits resulting from regular sauna use. The sauna gives you the benefit of beauty, vitality and sense of well-being. Despite the simplicity, there are a few accessories that can make your sauna experience a great deal more enjoyable.

Basically as you may already know a sauna is a hot air Finnish Bath. The nice thing with the sauna is that in itself it looks great. When you first purchase your sauna the wiring and lighting is installed prior to purchase. Some companies include the heater and all accessories needed for the sauna

Accessories can include the Bi-metal thermometer, wood bucket and ladle. You can also buy the stones as accessories. The most essential accessories for a traditional sauna are a wooden ladle, bucket for water, thermostat and wall lighting. There is also an wonderful selection of luxurious accessories, this can include a sauna stereo, with this you can sweat it out to your favorite music

Being that saunas are primarily made from wood, wooden accessories provide the finishing touches that will compliment your sauna. Wooden accessories include a wooden ladle and wooden bucket. You can also get a wooden sand timer. Another interesting accessory for your sauna is fragrances. You can also add a wooden towel rack.

Along with buying accessories you can at the time of purchasing choose from wooden or glass sauna doors along with window sections. This opens up your sauna to natural light. It is advised not to use direct lights. The best lighting is installed behind wooden panels. Do not varnish or paint any wooden surface in the interior as this will release toxins when it heats up.

A digital multimeter is one the most versatile and useful instruments in your auto shop. It is important to own a good model and understand how to use it properly. A digital multimeter is actually three devices in one. It is a voltmeter that measure electrical potential across a device in volts. It is an ammeter that measures the amount of electric current through a device. This is measured in amps. Finally, a digital multimeter is an ohmmeter that measures electrical resistance of a device. Electrical resistance is measured in ohms.

Today, modern digital multimeters are designed to be rugged and easy to operate. A good multimeter will have a rugged plastic case and large, easy to use selector knobs. The top part contains the digital read out screen. This is something you should thoroughly check out before you purchase one. Make sure the screen is large enough to read it and make sure you see the readout in sunlight. Chances are you will be using this instrument outside in direct sunlight.

Below the digital readout is a large knob called the function switch. The function switch allows you to change the modes the digital multimeter operates in. For example, you can easily change from voltmeter to ammeter to ohmmeter with the turn of the dial. Again make sure the function switch is large and easy to operate. Most function switches have approximately eight positions. Most have three V markings that measure voltage. They measure AC, DC and low voltage currents in the millivolt range. Next there will be two positions marked with A~ and A=. The A~ measures AC current in amps and the A= measures DC current in amps. The upside down horseshoe Ω measures resistance in ohms.

In order to measure voltage, first turn on the digital multimeter and let it go through its startup procedure. Generally the digital readout lights up and the unit goes through its self diagnostic checkout. Once that is completed you are ready to measure volts. Now turn the function switch to V= to measure DC volts. Now you will need to connect the red and black leads to the digital multimeter. Connect the red lead to the red input terminal labeled VΩ and connect the black lead to the terminal labeled COM for common terminal. Now you can measure volts by putting the red lead on the terminal with the higher potential and the black lead on the lower one.

To measure amps, the leads must be connected in a different fashion. First set the function switch to A= position. Connect the black lead to the COM terminal. Now you must connect the red lead to the terminal labeled 300mA. Now you are ready to connect the meter in series the device being measured by opening up the circuit and inserting the meter between the open points. The results will be in milliamps because you are using the 300mA terminal.

The third feature of a digital multimeter is its ability to measure to Ohms. Ohms is a measurement of resistance in an electrical circuit. First disconnect all wiring and power sources from the device being measured. Now turn the function switch to the Ω position and connect your leads. The red lead is connected to the terminal labeled VΩ and the black terminal connects to the COM terminal. The display will indicate OL. This is normal and means there is an overload. Now connect the leads across the device to measure the Ohms.

These are the basic functions of a digital multimeter. Remember to shut off your multimeter before storing it back in the your toolbox. You do not want a drained battery the next time you will need it. There are several good brands on the market today. Fluke digital multimeters are probably the most popular and you won't go wrong with one.

The common name of ethanol is ethyl alcohol, grain alcohol or drinking alcohol is a volatile, flammable and colourless liquid, powerful psychoactive drug and is one of the oldest known recreational drugs. It is the commonly known alcohol used in thermometers and alcoholic beverages. Also used in the preparation of spirits. It is a straight chain alcohol sharing the molecular formula C2H5OH and empirical formula C2H6O. It can also be written alternatively as CH3-CH2-OH where the carbon of a methyl group is attached to another carbon of methyl group which in turn is attached to a hydroxyl group. Ethanol is also written as Et-OH.

Fermentation of sugars into ethanol is one of the oldest known organic reactions known to humans so far. Consumption of ethanol as a beverage has been known since ancient times and in the modern scenario it is produced from the by-products of petroleum refining. Ethanol has a widespread use for humans like it is a component of solvents, medicines, scents, falvourings and fuel. Ethanol has been a part of alcoholic beverage since 9000 years ago and was consumed by the natives of China. Distillation of ethanol was known to early Greeks and Arabs who produced the distilled wine with the trade name School of Salerno in the 12th century. First absolute alcohol was produced by Raymond Lull. First synthetic ethanol was produced by Henry Hennel of Great Britain and S.G. Sérullas of France in 1826. Michael Faraday produced ethanol in 1828 by acid catalyzed hydration of ethylene in the similar manner as it is produced today for commercial production.

Ethanol is a volatile, colourless liquid with a strong characteristic odour and burns with a smokeless flame not visible in the normal light. Its physical properties are generally based on its hydroxyl group and its short carbon chain. The hydroxyl group participates in hydrogen bonding making it more viscous and volatile in comparison to other polar organic compounds of similar molecular weight. It is a versatile solvent, miscible with water and other organic solvents like acetic acid, acetone, benzene, carbon tetrachloride etc. It is also miscible with light aliphatic hydrocarbons like pentane and hexane. The miscibility of ethanol is limited with alkanes up to undecane. The ethanol-water mixture has a very less volume in comparison to the volume of individual components. Mixing of ethanol with water is a exothermic change resulting in the liberation of 777 J/mol of energy at 298K.

Pure ethanol is hygroscopic and readily absorbs water from air and this is due to hydrogen bonding. The polar nature of the hydroxyl group in ethanol is responsible for dissolving many ionic compounds like sodium and potassium hydroxides, magnesium chloride, sodium bromide, sodium and potassium chlorides are slightly soluble in ethanol. One end ethanol carries non-polar end so it also dissolves non-polar substances like the essential oils, flavouring agents and medicinal agents. The addition of some percent of ethanol to water reduces the surface tension of water considerably explaining the tears of wine property. When wine is poured in a glass the ethanol evaporates forming a layer of foam over the glass. As the ethanol content of wine decrease the surface tension of wine increases. The ethanol water mixture with ethanol content of 50% is flammable. The refractive index of ethanol is more than that of water and is 1.36242.

Ethanol is produced both by the hydration of ethylene as a petrochemical as well as by the fermentation of sugars by yeast and this process of production is a biological process. The production of ethanol by these two processes is equally depending upon the need of market. The production of ethanol as an industrial solvent by hydration of ethylene is a chemical reaction occurring in the presence of catalyst. Phosphoric acid is used as a catalyst in this reaction which is first adsorbed on the silica gel. The Shell Oil Company used phosphoric acid for commercial production of ethanol in 1947. The reaction is carried out at extremely high pressure steam of at about 300°C. In US the Union Carbide Corporation also utilized this process for commercial production of ethanol but at present only Lyondell Basell uses this process for commercial production.

At present indirect hydration of ethylene is carried out by reacting it with concentrated sulphuric acid in order to generate ethyl sulphate which is later on hydrolyzed to obtain ethanol and sulphuric acid again. Production of ethanol to be used in alcoholic beverages and industrial fuel is carried out by fermentation only. There are certain strains of yeast which convert sugars into ethanol and carbon dioxide. The process of yeast culture under controlled environment to produce alcohol is called as fermentation. Ethanol can be produced by the cereal grains but first these are converted into sugars. In brewing of the beer, the grains are first allowed to germinate or malt is used which produces the enzyme amylase. This amylase is responsible for conversion of all the starch present in the malted grain into sugars. For production of ethanol as a fuel, starch is first hydrolyzed into glucose by treating it with sulphuric acid.

Cellulose can also be used as a source of sugar for ethanol fermentation. At present many enzyme producing companies are trying to develop genetically modified fungi for the production of cellulase, xylanase, and hemicellulase enzymes. These enzymes will convert the starch present in the agricultural residue into sugars which will be fermented later on for commercial production of ethanol. Ethanol can also be produced from anaerobic bacterium Clostridium ljungdahlii which is present in the chicken wastes and used as a fuel. Production of ethanol from corn is under strong criticism. Ethanol can also be produced from the closed loop ethanol plant where ethanol is produced from manure and the manure left after ethanol production is used for fertilizing the crops. 75% of ethanol is produced by this process a good success. Alternative methods for ethanol production are also in use where ethanol is produced from waste materials like wood chips, sugarcane bagasse and switch grass.

The ethanol concentration is measured by two methods by the breweries and ethanol producing plants. Infrared ethanol sensors are used for measuring the vibrational frequency of the dissolved ethanol using CH band at 2900 cm-1. Calculation is done by the Beer Lambert Law. Another method uses hydrometer which measures the alcohol content during fermentation by detecting change in the specific gravity. Hydration of ethylene and brewing produces mixture of ethanol and water which requires purification. Fractional distillation produces 95.6% concentrated ethanol by volume which is an azeotrope mixture having boiling point of 78.1°C and cannot be further purified by distillation. Absolute ethanol can be obtained by desiccation using adsorbents like starch, corn grits or zeoloites which adsorb water and other methods include azeotropic distillation and extractive distillation. Most ethanol fuel refineries used an adsorbent for obtaining pure and concentrated ethanol. Absolute ethanol can also be obtained by distillation carried out with benzene and rectified spirit and in the third fraction ethanol is obtained at 78.3°C. Some benzene is left in the alcohol so obtained and is not fit for consumption as benzene is carcinogenic. Desiccation of glycerol also produces absolute alcohol and the alcohol so obtained is called as spectroscopic alcohol because of the absence of benzene in it so used as a solvent in spectroscopy.

The pure ethanol and alcoholic beverages are highly taxed by the government of the country but apart from consumption ethanol shares a number of uses in human life. To remain free from the taxes bittering agents like denatonium benzoate and toxins such as methanol, naphtha, and pyridine are added to absolute ethanol in order to make it unfit for consumption. The products so obtained are tagged with the term denatured alcohol. Absolute alcohol contains very low water content not fir for human consumption. It may contain toxic benzene if ethanol is obtained by azeotropic distillation. It is used as a solvent in the laboratory and industries. Spectroscopic ethanol has a low absorbance in ultraviolet and visible region so ideal foe ultraviolet and visible spectroscopy.

Rectified spirit is an azeotropic mixture with 4% water content is used instead of anhydrous ethanol for various purposes. Ethanol shares the category of primary alcohol as the carbon atom which is attached to the hydroxyl group is also attached to two hydrogen atoms in order to complete the valency. This hydroxyl group is mainly responsible for its chemical as well as physical properties. In presence of acid catalysts ethanol reacts with carboxylic acids to produce esters. This reaction is carried out industrially and water removal is very necessary from the ester thus, obtained. Esters again react with acid or base and produce ethanol and carboxylic acid. This reaction is known as saponification as it is used in preparation of soaps. Ethanol can also form esters with inorganic acids. Strong acid desiccants cause dehydration of alcohol resulting in the production of diethyl ether and byproducts. If the temperature of dehydration exceeds up to 160°C then ethylene is obtained as a main product. Complete combustion of ethanol produces carbon dioxide and water.

Ethanol is a neutral molecule with a pH of nearly 7.00. It can be completely converted into ethoxide ion by reacting it with a strong base like sodium. Ethanol also reacts with halogens to produce ethyl halides but this reaction requires zinc chloride as a catalyst. The reaction of halogens with ethanol in the presence of base results in the formation of haloforms and this reaction is called as haloform reaction. Ethanol can be oxidized to acetaldehyde and further oxidized to acetic acid depending upon the conditions and reagents. Oxidation of ethanol has no industrial significance but in human body the oxidation of ethanol is carried out by the enzyme liver alcohol dehyrogenase. The oxidation byproduct of ethanol is acetic acid which has a nutritive value for humans as it acts as a precursor to acetyl-CoA and the acetyl group is used for energy production during the biosynthesis of metabolites.

Ethanol is generally used as a motor fuel and fuel additive on large scale. Brazil has the largest industry for producing ethanol to be used as a fuel. Gasoline sold in Brazil contains 25% of anhydrous ethanol. Hydrous ethanol has got its use in greater proportion as a fuel in majority of cars being sold in the modern era. The combustion of ethanol in an internal engine yields many products of incomplete combustion as produced by gasoline including larger quantity of formaldehyde and other compounds of acetaldehyde. These byproducts show strong photochemical activity resulting in the production of ozone. The world production of ethanol was 51 gigaliters in 2006 and Brazil and US topped in ethanol production. More than 20% of the Brazilian cars utilize 100% ethanol as a fuel as their engine is specially designed for using ethanol as a fuel along with the flex engines. Flex fuel engines in Brazil are able to work with ethanol, gasoline or with the mixture of both. Brazil utilizes sugarcane crop for the production of ethanol and the bagasse left after ethanol production is utilized for the production of electricity.

The United States industries are largely dependent on corn for the commercial production of ethanol. One major problem with ethanol is that it cannot be efficiently shipped through the pipelines as it is easily miscible with water. Ethanol is the major psychoactive constituent of alcoholic beverages with strong depressing effect on the central nervous system. It has a complex mode of action on different parts of brain and is a strong agonist to the GABA receptors. Gamma-hydroxybutyric acid (GHB) is also another agonist to the GABA receptors. Ethanol is metabolized in human body as an energy providing nutrient as it acts as a precursor for acetyl-CoA which is a common intermediate in both glucose and fatty acid metabolism. Alcoholic beverages vary widely in their alcoholic content. Most of the alcoholic beverages are classified as fermented beverages as they are produced by the action of yeast on the sugary foodstuffs or distilled beverages which include ethanol addition by distillation. The ethanol content of an alcoholic beverage is measured in term of volume fraction of ethanol expressed as alcoholic proof units.

Fermented beverages can be easily classified on the basis of their key foodstuffs. Beers are made from cereal gains or starchy materials while wines and ciders are prepared from fruit juices and meads from honey. Different cultures and different nations use different sorts of foodstuffs for the preparation of alcoholic beverages. Distilled beverages are prepared by distilling the fermented beverages. The important categories of distilled beverages include whiskeys made from fermented cereal grains, brandies obtained from fermented fruit juices and rum obtained from fermented molasses or sugarcane juice. Vodka and similar neutral grain spirits can be obtained by distilling either potatoes or grains and the products thus obtained lack the taste of key ingredient. Many other alcoholic beverages are also prepared from fruits, herbs and spices in different parts of the globe. In many beverages ethanol is concentrated other than distillation like in Applejack which is obtained by freeze distillation and water is frozen out of the apple cider leaving an ethanol rich liquid. Ice beer is also freeze distilled with beer as a base liquid. Fortified wines are prepared by adding brandy to partially fermented wine. This step kills the yeast and retains some sugar in the grape juice as a result these wines are quite sweeter than other wines.

Alcoholic beverages are also used in cooking as they impart flavour and also dissolve some of the hydrophobic compounds which are insoluble in water. Ethanol is a very important industrial ingredient which finds its use as base in production of many chemicals like ethyl halides, ethyl esters, diethyl ether, acetic acid, ethyl amines and to a lesser extent butadiene. Ethanol is more commonly used in medical wipes and in hand sanitizers as well as an antiseptic. It kills microbes by neutralizing their proteins, dissolving lipids and is effective against most bacteria and fungi and many viruses but ineffective against bacterial spores.

Ethanol is also used as an antidote for poisoning many other toxic alcohols like methanol and ethylene glycol. It competes with other alcohols for the alcohol dehydrogenase enzyme and thus, prevents formation of toxic aldehyde and carboxylic acid derivatives and declines the tendency of glycol to form crystals in kidneys. Ethanol is miscible with water and so is an effective purpose solvent. It finds use in paints, tinctures, markers and personal care products like perfumes and deodorants. It is also used in vodka sauce a popular flavouring agent for foods. Before the development of modern medicines ethanol was used as a medicine against depression and as an anesthetic. Ethanol was also used as a fuel in the bipropellant rockets during the World War-II.

The removal of ethanol through the oxidation by alcohol dehydrogenase in the liver from human body is limited. Removal of large concentration of ethanol from blood follows zero order kinetics. The blood alcohol concentration can be used for modifying the biochemistry of methanol and ethylene glycol. Pure ethanol causes irritation on skin and the eyes. Nausea, vomiting and intoxication are the common symptoms of ingesting it. Long term effects can result in serious liver damage. Ethanol is not a carcinogen but its metabolites may act as carcinogens.

We can summarize that ethanol is good as well as bad as it adds a flavour to our life.

Remember when you had to "open wide" and sit with a glass tube sticking out from under your tongue for 5 minutes in order for your temperature to be taken - (I hope they remembered to wash it from the last sick person that had it under their tongue). What a carry on that was. It's ok, those days are long gone, because the fantastic Exergen Temporal Thermometer can take an accurate temperature reading by simply being passed across your forehead - now doesn't that sound more like it?

The first Exergen Temporal Thermometers were produced in 1999 and have proved to be very accurate, as well as causing much less distress or discomfort among patients, and Exergen Temporal Thermometer also produces much faster results. They are even self-disinfecting, how clever is that?

Other types of thermometer which can take a reading without being stuck in your mouth are a Forehead Thermometer. There are basically two types of Forehead Thermometers, the Exergen Temporal Thermometer (see above) and a strip type Forehead Thermometer which is the cheaper option. They are very handy to have in the home for babies, small children and the elderly.

Other types of modern, clever thermometers include Digital Infrared Thermometers. They have proved to be extremely useful in the home, in industry, the military and law enforcement agencies even have them, they can accurately measure temperatures from a distance away - the distance is determined by the D/S rating of each individual Digital Infrared Thermometer.

Handheld Infrared Thermometers are great fun! Of course they are useful in all sorts of situations too, mechanics use them, restaurants use them to measure the temperature of the food, scientists find them helpful, they're good for education and, as I've already said, they can be great fun. If you get your hands on a Handheld Infrared Thermometer you'll even be able to tell whether your food is hot enough, or which coat is the warmest! Infrared thermometers really have come a long way in a relatively short amount of time.

Top dog in the kitchen is probably the Taylor Thermometer. They've been making thermometers since the 1800s so they've certainly had enough practice. Taylor Thermometers are used in ovens, freezers, deep-fryers, in fact, all over the kitchen. They can even tell you whether your wine is at the optimum temperature - a very important piece of information I'm sure you'll agree.

A corporate promotion meant more money and more stress for John R. Unfortunately, his migraines went from occasional to every Saturday morning for 4 months in row. "Then they just stopped due to neurofeedback."

Neurofeedback is a form of biofeedback that works with brain function. "I haven't had a migraine since my 3rd session. I'm continuing the training for a while longer because I don't want to have a migraine ever again."

Migraines normally run in families and John's siblings get these 'headaches' too. The migraine statistics are dismal. Headaches are the most common complaint physicians hear. About 20 Americans suffer from migraine headaches, but only half of these people call their headaches "migraines". Of the 12% of people who get migraines, women are victims 3 to 1 over men.

Symptoms typically include horrible throbbing pain in part of the head. Nausea is common as is a sensitivity to light or sound. The pain can last for hours or days. Migraines may begin in childhood and can last throughout the life span.

An episode often begins after an accumulation of stress and then a release from stress. The ebb and flow of the autonomic nervous system is disrupted and the relaxation wheels grind. The brain stem and trigeminal nerve conspire to constrict blood flow out of the brain. An engorged blood vessel in the brain pounds against a meandering cranial nerve causing the throbbing pain. A visual aura only occurs 30% of the time but for some people that is the primary symptom.

Migraines are usually triggered by an accumulation of idiosyncratic factors. These can range from weather to wine.

Migraineurs are often highly responsible people and somewhat tightly wound. There is little point in telling them to relax. They must first learn how.

Biofeedback has been recognized for decades as an effective technique to aid migraine headache sufferers. The basic method is to teach relaxation with hand warming. Greater blood flow to the hands brings the warmth.

During the fright 'r flight response, blood moves away from the periphery. The opposite autonomic nervous system mode is rest 'n digest. Here our skin tone goes from pale to florid.

The biofeedback remedy is trial and error practice in raising your finger temperature by watching a thermometer. The goal is the facility to achieve 94.5º within 5 minutes. This does take diligent practice. Few people keep it up without lots of skillful encouragement. It works for 50% of the people or 50% of the pain depending on what the study measured.

With advances in technology have come efficiency of time. And efficacy in degree and proportion of successful results.

Now there are two kinds of neurofeedback training that have made stopping migraine headaches quite possible for over 90% of those with this debilitating disorder. The combination of methods has not been tested.

Biofeedback begins with monitoring. The first method uses an infrared sensor to detect heat radiation emanating from the forehead.

Why are human foreheads bare of hair? To cool the large cerebral cortex in the front of our skull! Learning to increase blood perfusion to the frontal cortex is acquiring biofeedback control over regional cerebral blood flow. When viewed with infrared photography each session appears to brighten the entire forehead.

Think of infrared training as brain strengthening. Sessions spent raising the infrared temperature seems to stimulate neurocellular activity. The activation becomes greater self-regulation over the cortical migraine generator.

The effect looks like enabling the brain to turn off the migraine switch. More practice at 'brain brightening' gradually builds the ability to turn away a migraine before it gets started without conscious effort. This can interrupt a current raging migraine within 20 minutes. Clients often say "It just kinda pooped out."

In the main study of 100 migraine patients, 94% got at least 50% reduction in pain after 6 half-hour sessions. During these sessions, the client looks at either the biofeedback numbers or their favorite movie. Above a moving threshold the movie plays.

The second form of neurofeedback uses an EEG or electroencephalograph to read brain waves. This micro-volt meter detects tiny brain emanations on the scalp and displays the information for biofeedback of brain activity. Every time a neuron fires it is a chemical and an electrical event.

As in all biofeedback, displaying a biological process leads to control of that function. With self-awareness comes self-regulation. All healing is self-healing where self-information is the remedy. The practitioner merely holds up a high-tech mirror and does some coaching. Home training units are now available.

The most advanced forms of brainwave biofeedback requires no special effort. You simply listen to your favorite music. If you want, you can look at a dynamic graphic. The information comes from brief pauses in the music and graphics corresponding to moments of higher brainwave turbulence.

Interrupting a brainwaves surge promotes peace of mind. So does continuous playing of the music during relative lulls in the constant mental storm as read by the EEG. The pauses are set to come often enough to be informative and transformative while still being a pleasant experience. It is like learning to drive a car steadily within the lane when there are rumble strips on both sides. Then narrow the lane. The software has 18 lanes at once spanning the brainwave spectrum.

Neurofeedback makes the central nervous system more internally efficient. Rather than closing down at lower speeds, the mind becomes better coordinated and more complex.

The real problem are the ruts and patterns we develop to over control ourselves. Any fixed brainwave pattern is a loss of freedom, a reduction in flexibility and less resilience for the entire system.

Turning down the idle speed allows a brainwave reorganization and self-repair where extraneous habits are discarded. To drop needless surging is a permanent release. To cease wasting energy is a welcome unwinding that is recognized and retained naturally.

These remedies work to create significant and often total relief for a very high proportion of clients. And when it works, it seems to work for good. Both forms of neurofeedback typically produce permanent freedom from future migraines.

When done gently, both forms of neurofeedback are safe and harmless, even for sensitive people. The other effects of neurofeedback are all benefits such as lower stress, better sleep and reduced mental chatter. Adverse effects are rare, minor and self-limiting, generally caused by pushing the system, such as blindly doing too much too soon.

Neurofeedback is highly effective in empowering the migraineur to stop getting horrible headaches. John R. found the experience of neurofeedback to be utterly calming. "I feel sharper and definitely less anxious. And I haven't had any more headaches, not even a hint of one. It's nice having all my Saturdays back."